Well here is something that I have not seen talked about on any NES collectors site. We all know what really makes an NES cart or box good condition. However lets talk about the cart itself I am thinking about putting together an NES grading list. I collect Near Mint to Mint NES games however I also use the pin on the bottom of the game to mentally grade a game.  :P

Now I could be wrong! So if I am please correct me.

I am pretty sure there are 36 “Pins” at the bottom of the game. Now what I have noticed and I find this to be true because most of my games of coarse were bought used and not used on the same NES system, is that the same 4 pins are missing on the bottom (to show to me that it had a good amount of play time) Now I am assuming that this is what the NES reads to play the games. Because 4 pins are missing I assume that the NES needs to read 4 pins in order to play the game (I am probably very wrong with that guess). Anyway when I go to buy an NES game next to Sticker, Color, Back Sticker, Rattling etc. I check the “36 Pin” as I call it and see if they are all in crisp condition. If they are then I find that part of the game Mint. Now I could be wrong so anyway does anybody know if I am wrong or agree with me?

Grading boxes manuals and games aren't a bad idea, eveyone almost does it. I didn't quite understand the pin question, but you mean that some have a blank space? Some carts/ boards do have that but it's made like that, ment to be so nothing to do with how the game's been used.

Some of the middle pins connect to the expansion slot on the bottom of the NES. Since nothing uses the expansion slot, most later games had their PCBs made without them.

Also a 128 Kb eprom (like baseball used) has 28 legs, as does a 256 Kb eprom (like Super Mario Bros).  Since not all the legs are used on the smaller chip, a PCB using that chip might have had some of its pins removed since they didnt need to connect them to the eproms.

Take a look at Super Mario Bros 2.  It comes in both types.  

The rattle can be caused by 2 things.  The little plastic columns inside which easily break off, or the much more important big plastic piece that holds the PCB securely in the case.   You would need to take the cart apart to determine what causes the rattle, and the rattle goes away if you open the cart and remove the offending plastic.  So you'd need to disassemble the game anyways to see if its all there.

I would really like to come to an agreement on grading.  Is the idea to grade each aspect separately?   Label is a 10 but the back sticker is a 2, etc...

Al

oh yeah I would grade that way to each part out of 5 or 10 however I don't know if I agree with the pins just not being there or being taking out. Because on some games you can see that it has been there but it is wearing out and the 3-4 PINS are fading out and disappearing. So I don’t see anyway on how that is true. After looking at 2 games I have I found that is actually 6 PINS on most of my games. Also I think this can be caused by cleaning the games also but I am not sure. I just don’t think that is the reason because you can tell on some games the PIN used to be there 100% but looks like it has been wore out. I will provide pics soon on exactly what I am talking about if anybody is confused.

If you see "shadows" on the white plastic, its not because the pins have worn through (although I do have carts with worn connectors), its likely because dirt from the NES 72 pin connector has accumulated on the cart.

For more info on the NES connector, check out kevtris's site
http://www.kevtris.org/nes/nestuff2.txt

When I made my Sudoku carts, I used donor carts with all their pins for my Grey carts, and carts manufactured without the middle pins for my Gold ones.

Al

Bump for really great idea.

There should be a standard for grading individual items.  Carts, boxes, manuals, etc.

Let's start with boxes.  What is your idea of a #10 box (perfect) and a #1 box (horrible)?

Reply to this thread if you're interested in a standard.

Go Go Go!!!  

I HATE the idea of grading gaming stuff, hate it.  Games are to be played and not just placed on a shelf.  They are expensive enough as is without grading, ugh.
~~NGD

NGD, I happen to agree with you that games are for playing first and collecting second.  

However, I also know there are people who buy just the boxes and just the manuals and just loose carts and just carts and then put collections together that way.

My thinking was that, for those people, it would help them know a little more clearly what they are getting.  If I'm buying a manual off of ebay, just for example, and I ask the condition the manual is in, the seller could respond:

"The pages are sorta creased and the binding is kind of loose."

OR

"It's about a six on your scale."


If we had a comprehensive scale, I only see it being easier for collectors.  I guess it could raise the price, but prices are going up anyway.

I dunno.. What does everyone else think?

I think a standard grading system would help people when they work out trades.  I've taken scans, and I still have to tell the person about any flaws because sometimes a picture doesnt tell the whole story.

I do not however want the hobby to become like coin and comic collecting.  

 I'm not going to pay more because someone says their game is a 9.7 instead of a 9.2.
Conversely, I also dont want to trade at all for a game thats beat up.

Al

good idea, very hard to execute.

Three problems I forsee.

1) human error/difference of opinion.  I've had people turn down what I would consider a 9/10 box after I sent them a picture and gave them a detailed description of all the flaws, then they tell me its not nice enough.  I'm looking at this practically mint box saying "are you kidding?" but everyone has a different idea on what they want and how bothered they are by certain flaws.

2)  banning together, if you set up a detailed how to guide on how to grade/rate stuff.  getting the community as a whole to accept an use it would be very very difficult.  And if only a select few use it then its a waste of time.

3)  grounds for complaint.  If there was a detailed way to rate a box say.  Lets say you start at 10 and -.2 for a crease 1 inch or less, -1.2 for a tear, -.8 for a crushed corner not extending more than 1 inch into the box and so on.  And I came up with 6.8 rating for my box and traded it to you.  Would you be able to rightfully complain if you get it and find an extra crease or two and end with a 6.5 rating?  Obviously if I tell you its a 9 and it ends up a 6, thats a no brainer.  But a minute detail on an already flawed box?  I bring this up because there are a lot of people in the community that are THAT anal and would make issue.

oh and dont get me wrong! I don't think this is a great idea right now I am on the fence I see pros and cons.

This post wen the other way it was meant so I could grade my own games, and I wanted to know about the 72 pin?

ya, I think a few people thought you were referring to a grading service that you pay for and they inturn grade your games.

I got where you were coming from, and do like the idea.  Just see some major hurdles to overcome to have a system that is widely used and accepted (see my previous post)

Bryan

What's wrong with...

NEW

USED (Excellent, Good, Fair or Rough)

Anything beyond that is just ridiculous. If you need perfection become a Borg. As far as grading the pin connector, you must be joking? It either works or it doesn't. If you clean it and it still doesn't work it's broken, end of story. I'd really like to see a pic of a "worn through" connector. There is no possible way to wear through a connector...unless you are cleaning it with a bench grinder.